Edible San Diego

The Many Stories Behind a Dish

ad-1

Eat

ad-1
ad-1
ad-1
ad-1
The Many Stories Behind a Dish

Photography by Stephanie Arsenault

Listen to this articleAudio coming soon

How chefs put a spin on a selection of three reader recipes that are meant to be cooked, shared, and enjoyed

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHANIE ARSENAULT DEANNA SANDOVAL 

Styling by Deanna Sandoval, Logan Mitchell, and Katie Stokes

Every recipe has a reason behind it; some are passed on through family traditions, others begin with whatever happens to be in the fridge, and some are simply dishes that someone loves enough to make again and again.

Those reasons are at the heart of Cook the Cover, where local San Diego home cooks share their recipes and the stories that go with them.

Rocío Siso-Gurriarán, Eduardo Cortes, and Ashley McBrady. Photo: Stephanie Arsenault for Edible San Diego.

This year’s test kitchen brought together returning chef Rocío Siso-Gurriarán of MIHO, Ashley McBrady of MAKE Cafe, and Eduardo Cortes of Alchemy – Choose Thy Poison to recreate three recipes. Each chef was invited to select one recipe that spoke to them, and the resulting group of dishes is a mix that all of us can add to our repertoire.

Siso-Gurriarán adds finishing touches to Bayshore Court Baked Shrimp. Photo: Stephanie Arsenault for Edible San Diego.

For Siso-Gurriarán, food has always been tied to family and gathering. She grew up in Galicia, Spain, in a winemaking family, where meals, wine, and time around the table shaped everyday life. Before becoming a chef, Siso-Gurriarán studied art history at the Universidad de Salamanca, then she rose from unpaid intern to sous chef at Casa Marcelo, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Santiago de Compostela. After moving to San Diego in 2001, she worked at Tapenade, Cavaillon, The Smoking Goat, and Nine-Ten. She joined MIHO during its Gastrotruck days, helping it grow into a catering and events operation. In 2021, she returned as MIHO’s culinary visionary, leading menu development, sourcing, and the culinary team.

Her recipe selection for Cook the Cover, Bayshore Court Baked Shrimp, fit naturally with her appreciation for fresh ingredients and food that doesn’t need to be complicated to feel special. She added a touch of Spanish influence, then baked the shrimp in scallop shells. “This variety of scallop is not harvestable anymore, so the shells are kind of precious,” she said. Nestled into mounds of rock salt to keep them steady, the shells became an elegant vessel for serving.

McBrady’s dish, Not Your Nonna’s Meatballs!, called for handmade orecchiette. Photo: Stephanie Arsenault for Edible San Diego.

McBrady’s love of food began with her family’s sourdough bread business, where she saw firsthand how thoughtfully made food could bring people together. That early connection inspired her to study food science in Portland before building a career in restaurant kitchens, where she gained expertise in cooking, menu development, operations, and leadership. Today, as executive chef of MAKE Cafe in Normal Heights, she brings those experiences together through ingredient-driven cooking and meaningful relationships with local producers.

The café is part of MAKE Projects, a San Diego nonprofit that provides paid job training. Participants gain experience on a farm, in the kitchen, and in café roles, all while building skills in communication, teamwork, and hospitality. McBrady chose Not Your Nonna’s Meatballs!, a playful spin on a familiar comfort food. “If you’ve never had fish meatballs,” she said, “you’ll love them.”

Made with locally sourced ground opah and served up family-style, the dish reflected her personal approach to cooking: welcoming, communal, and unafraid to find something new in familiar flavors.

Cortes presses a two-toned tortilla together to form a Crispy Mashed Potato Taco. The black and white shell is a signature of the empanadas served on the Alchemy – Choose Thy Poison menu. Photo: Stephanie Arsenault for Edible San Diego.

Chef Cortes didn’t have to think long about his selection: Crispy Mashed Potato Tacos. “They’re a staple that is so simple but so delicious, and I feel like it’s one of those things that anyone can do,” Cortes said.

Originally from Mexico City, Cortes already knew and loved potato tacos as a humble, satisfying food found in homes and on the street. A lifelong home cook, he entered the professional food world through Barracruda, the Mexican seafood pop-up he operated before opening Alchemy – Choose Thy Poison. Located in Logan Heights near Barrio Logan, Alchemy showcases Cortes’s experimental approach to cooking, shaped by memories of Mexico City and his interest in looking at familiar dishes in new ways.

His recipe choice embodies his cooking philosophy. The dish is approachable, comforting, and rooted in tradition while still leaving room for personality, and Cortes added plenty of his own.

This year’s Cook the Cover recipes show that some of the most meaningful dishes are often the most familiar. Each recipe offers a story about the person who submitted it, and each chef brought inspiration from their background to the table. At the end of the day, all three found something worth celebrating in dishes meant to be cooked, shared, and enjoyed.

Cook the Cover recipes are edited for clarity and published to reflect the original submissions.

Want to get into the minds of these three chefs? This roundup of tips from the test kitchen is sure to inspire new techniques, help you learn to adapt a dish for the ingredients you have on hand, and add familiar flavors that make any recipe your own.

read it here » Tips from the 2026 Cook the Cover Test Kitchen
Mise en place in the 2026 Cook the Cover test kitchen. Photo by Stephanie Arsenault for Edible San Diego.

Try the 2026 Cook the Cover recipes for yourself

    Bayshore Court Baked Shrimp

    Recipe by Dianne F. Collatos

    Selected by Rocío Siso-Gurriarán

    “Miami Pinks” run through Biscayne Bay all winter long. They peak during full moons, in obscenely large schools. Back in the early ‘90s, my mother Flossie and her friend Everette Swan often ventured out to catch them. By the light of the silvery moon, they gunned his Whaler into the bay from our home on Bayshore Court in Coconut Grove, FL. Their laughter (undoubtedly aided by martinis and Crown Royale) could be heard by many who lived along our sea-walled waterfront. Once at the bridge, they would drift with lights ablaze, dipping their handheld nets to catch bucketloads of shrimp. The night waters were illuminated by large lamps hung all over boats and from the bridge by a united nation of fishermen. It was the most memorable and fun time of the winter season when they ran.

    The next day at lunch, we would cook up this simple and fresh meal—the best! There were always plenty of shrimp to share with the neighbors and friends, plus friendly cats and dogs that “Swannie” entertained from under his umbrella out on the bay until the wee hours of the night.

    make it here » Bayshore Court Baked Shrimp
    Don’t let the luxurious look of this dish fool you. Made with simple ingredients in a slow process that taps into our appreciation for approachable cooking that delivers on flavor and appeal. Photo: Deanna Sandoval for Edible San Diego.

    Not Your Nonna's Meatballs!

    Recipe by Laura Oversmith

    Selected by Ashley McBrady

    This recipe was inspired by combining my love of Italian cooking with an unconventional meat that truly reinvents Nonna’s meatballs. It honors my traditional family meatballs and pasta while supporting our local fishing community with ground opah from TunaVille Market and Grocery. I used herbs and lemons from my garden to flavor the meatballs, and the sauce I made was simple, with simmered red pomodoro datterino and yellow datterino tomatoes (I like the Giadzy brand and have also used the Di Napoli brand), smashed garlic cloves, a grating of nutmeg, dried oregano, sea salt, lemon zest, and pepper. If you like it hot, add some Calabrian chile flakes.

    This recipe will work well with any reader’s Nonna’s sauce and favorite pasta shape. The meatballs do not taste like fish at all—instead, they’re a celebration of thinking outside a traditional recipe to create a version that goes from boat to table!

    make it here » Not Your Nonna’s Meatballs!
    You’ll never guess these meatballs are made with fish. Photo: Deanna Sandoval for Edible San Diego.

    Crispy Mashed Potato Tacos

    Recipe by Lindsay Smith

    Selected by Eduardo Cortes

    My grandmother was an amazing self-taught cook. The woman had no limits. She killed it at baking, could grill the perfect steak, and prepare a scallop like nobody’s business. Whether it was veal parm or grilled cheese, it was always restaurant quality. But she really excelled at Thanksgiving. Always inherited recipes, always the same menu, and always an abundance of leftovers. When she passed away when I was 17, I took over. I didn’t want that tradition to go away. While I’ve added to and updated her original dishes, the leftovers are still in abundance—and what to do with them is always a question.

    After I had my children, one of the traditions we started as a family was celebrating Taco Tuesday in various iterations. So what else was I going to do with leftover mashed potatoes but turn them into a crispy taco? I layer Thanksgiving mashed potatoes smothered with cheese in tortillas, then fry them up. Served alongside crema and fresh tomatillo salsa, you have a dish that’s not just leftover-worthy, but craveable all year round.

    make it here » Crispy Mashed Potato Tacos
    A recipe for Crispy Mashed Potato Tacos shared by Lindsay Smith and prepared by Eduardo Cortes. Photo: Deanna Sandoval for Edible San Diego.

    Editorial partners

    Food for Cook the Cover proudly sponsored by Jimbo’s.

    A special thank you to MIHO creative event studio for generously hosting the Cook the Cover test kitchen.

    Opah gifted by TunaVille Market and Grocery.

    FROM THE PAGES

    This article originally published in issue 84.

    Cover photo by Deanna Sandoval for Edible San Diego.
contributor19873

Stephanie Arsenault

Stephanie Arsenault is an Oceanside-based food and travel writer and photographer who is also WSET-certified and a Prud’homme-certified beer geek. She loves nothing more than spending a day baking, pickling, or gathering friends around the table for a dinner party. Get your hands on a copy of Stephanie’s book, 111 Places in San Diego That You Must Not Miss, and follow her culinary and travel adventures on Instagram @globaldish or her website globaldish.ca.