Frijoles Rancheros

BY Claudette Zepeda
October 14, 2026

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Beans are more than a side dish

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(COWBOY BEANS)

We can’t talk about the borderlands without talking about our vaqueros, the men on horses who worked the cattle on the rancheros. Vaca means cow—that’s where vaqueros get their name. (Yes, Mexico gave the world cowboys—you’re welcome!)

The cowboys would make do with whatever meat they had available on the ranch, cooking giant pots of protein-filled beans outside over a live fire. These meals are probably best enjoyed when eaten sitting under a tree, sharing jokes and stories from the good ol’ days … but they’re pretty damn good eaten inside in your air-conditioned house, too.

There are many versions of these types of beans, but my favorite frijoles charros are made with lots of cured and smoked pork products, which accommodate the roaming ranchero lifestyle. The various textures, heat, creaminess, and the cool, fresh flavor of the cilantro on top makes this a complete meal, always better when tucked into a homemade flour tortilla. You can make beans fresh just for this, but I like to use this recipe to finish up leftover beans and amp them up with aromatics and pork.

let’s cook together » Cookbook Club: Claudette Zepeda’s Debut Cookbook Embodies Local Culinary Cultures

This recipe is republished with permission from Cooking the Borderlands: Spice andSmoke Between Mexico and the States by Claudette Zepeda. © 2026 by Claudette Zepeda. Photographs © 2026 by David Alvarado. Photos on pages 8, 10, and 242 courtesy of the author. Photos on page 14 courtesy of Jason Sutherland Hsu. Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York.

Available for purchase at The Book Catapult.*

* This link is not affiliated. It was selected to promote a local, independent bookstore.

FROM THE PAGES

Originally published in issue 83.

Cover image by Luke Schuecker for *Edible San Diego*.

Ingredients

SERVES 4 TO 6

6 strips bacon, diced
1⁄2 cup diced smoked ham
1 1⁄2 cups diced andouille sausage
2 serrano peppers, stemmed, seeded, and minced
1⁄2 medium yellow onion, diced small
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 whole San Marzano tomatoes from a can
2 canned chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, minced
4 cups leftover stewed beans*, liquid strained
Diamond Crystal kosher salt to taste
Flour tortillas for serving

Optional Garnishes

Crumbled chicharrones
Fresh chopped cilantro
Crumbled queso fresco
*See recipe for Frijoles de la Olla (Aromatic Stewed Beans) on page 30, Cooking the Borderlands.

Make Frijoles Rancheros

In a large pot or Dutch oven set over medium heat, add the bacon, ham, and sausage. Cook to render out the fat, browning the sausage and ensuring the bacon is crisp, about 8 minutes. Pour most of the fat out into a ramekin and set aside, then return the pot to the heat.
Add the serranos, onion, and garlic to the pot with the meat. Sauté until the onion becomes translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and chipotle peppers, scraping the bottom of the pan to dislodge any caramelized bits.
Lastly, add the stewed beans and bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low. Smash everything roughly with a bean smasher or the back of a spoon until you have a chunky purée. Adjust salt to taste.
Serve hot with warm flour tortillas. I like to crumble chicharrones and chopped fresh cilantro on top, and if I’m feeling fancy, maybe some crumbled queso fresco.