Expert advice for serving up the best pasta bolognese

BEFORE SAUCING YOUR PASTA, DRESS IT IN MELTED BUTTER, EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, AND PARMESAN

Rocío says this helps build a flavor barrier between the pasta and the sauce. Once pasta is cooked to al dente, reserve a cup of pasta water (in case you need it) and drain the rest. Melt a healthy pat of butter with a glug of olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-low heat and toss the pasta in it to give it a good coating. If the pasta starts looking dry or clumpy, you can add small splashes of the pasta water to keep it loose. Grate fresh Parmesan over the pasta and stir that in. This should all come together in a few minutes and the pasta will be coated in a glossy sauce that is ready to top with your bolognese.

make it here » Mama Marie’s Bolognese

Chef’s adjustments for seafood en papillot

MAKE A PASTE WITH WINE AND BUTTER

Rocío suggests another approach to John Beaudry’s use of wine in the Salmon-Chanted Evening recipe. Mix the wine and seasonings into softened butter and make a paste to spread on the parchment paper and fish. This technique suspends the flavor of the wine in the fat and helps emulsify the liquid.

make it here » Salmon-Chanted Evening

Put a high-end finish on a crusted rack of lamb

TRUST THE TRUSS

According to Jesse, it’s worth taking the time to truss the lamb racks. You can find videos or guides online on how to do it, but it’s basically a matter of wrapping and tying cooking twine in the meaty parts of the lamb rack between the bone joints. This helps to ensure the lamb rack retains its shape for more even cooking.

CRUST THE LAMB AFTER IT’S COOKED

Many recipes call for crusting the lamb before roasting, but Jesse suggests adding it afterwards for a more evenly crunchy effect. Try toasting the breadcrumbs with butter, herbs, and spices in a sauté pan, stirring occasionally until golden. Remove the crumbs and spread them out on a baking sheet to allow them to cool. Follow the recipe to season, cook, and rest your lamb racks without the crust, and once the meat is temped, brush them with Dijon mustard and coat them with the breadcrumbs to finish. This approach preserves the crispiness of the crumbs and reduces the risk of losing parts of the crust during the cooking process.

make it here » Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb with Mint-Garlic Yogurt and Chive Oil

Originally published in issue 79.