Making the most of winter bounty with sugar and salt
As winter envelops Southern California, the region’s orchards burst with a kaleidoscope of citrus fruits, offering a vibrant antidote to the season’s chill. With the abundance of local, seasonal ingredients, what better way to celebrate winter than by exploring the versatile world of citrus? From preserving its essence to incorporating it into cozy recipes, let’s delve into the art of citrus preservation and culinary creativity during this bountiful season.
To fully appreciate the versatility of citrus, it’s essential to understand its anatomy. Within each fruit, three main parts contribute to its dynamic flavors: the zest, the pith, and the juice.
The zest, found in the outermost layer of the peel, is where the essential oils reside and where the most intense citrus flavors are concentrated. This fragrant zest can be grated and added to dishes or infused into sugar or salt, adding brightness to winter fare.
Next comes the pith, the white layer between the zest and the juicy interior. While the pith is not typically used in cooking due to its bitter taste, it can still be repurposed for its pectin content in winter jams or marmalades.
Finally, we have the juice. The succulent liquid treasure stored within the fruit’s segments imparts a refreshing citrusy tang to a myriad of culinary creations from warming beverages to comforting desserts.
The cool season in Southern California brings forth an array of citrus fruits, and preserving them allows us to savor their flavors long after the season has passed. Drawing inspiration from diverse culinary traditions, we can preserve citrus in various ways to capture its essence.
Consider the Korean tradition of creating citrus cheongs, where fruits and sugar are combined in equal amounts to extract their natural juices and produce syrup. This method transforms the tangy fruit into a delightfully sweet and tart treat, perfect for cocktails or topping desserts.
Alternatively, we can embrace the Middle Eastern practice of salt curing. Burying citrus in salt will develop the fruit’s complex and savory flavors; the resulting preserves add depth and vibrancy to dishes, infusing them with a touch of sunshine.
For a longer-lasting preservation technique, dehydrating citrus slices allows us to concentrate their flavors and extend their shelf life. Dried citrus slices make a perfect garnish and are fun to string into decorative garlands.
Let winter citrus be a guiding light by adding these salty and sweet preserves to your cooking year-round. With a little creativity and a lot of flavor, there’s no limit to the culinary delights you can create with these fruity treasures.
1. Clean citrus thoroughly by creating a solution of 1 teaspoon of baking soda to 2 cups of water.
2. Soak citrus whole for 5 minutes to remove dirt and pesticide residue.
3. Dry the fruit well before use.
With a little bit of time, you can make lemons and kosher salt go a long way.
Once you've got a jar of salt-preserved lemons ready for use, this dressing is a must-make!
Derived from the age-old Korean tradition of preserving fruits in syrup, this delightful concoction captures the essence of fresh citrus in every spoonful.
Use citrus cheong over pancakes or ice cream, or to perk up refreshing beverages like this ...
Originally published in issue 76.